In textile manufacturing, the term "fell" refers to a specific characteristic of fabric that pertains to its appearance, texture, and structure. The fell is an important aspect of woven fabrics, especially those created on power looms or hand looms. It refers to the edge or line formed by the last weft thread or pick inserted in a fabric as it progresses in the weaving process.
The fell plays a crucial role in determining the overall quality and appearance of a woven fabric. It is the point where the weft threads interlock with the warp threads, creating a secure and stable structure. The evenness and alignment of the fell contribute to the fabric's stability, drape, and aesthetic appeal.
When the fabric is woven, the weft thread is inserted horizontally across the loom, interlacing with the vertical warp threads. As each weft thread is inserted, it pushes the previously inserted threads down, creating a compacted line or edge known as the fell. The fell can be seen on one side of the fabric, while the opposite side is typically smoother and more uniform.
The position of the fell in a fabric can vary depending on the weaving technique used. In plain weave fabrics, such as cotton shirting, the fell is usually located in the center, equidistant from the selvedges. However, in more complex weaves like twill or satin, the fell may be slightly offset, giving the fabric a diagonal or lustrous appearance.
The quality and precision of the fell are essential in ensuring a fabric's dimensional stability and appearance. If the fell is uneven or poorly aligned, it can result in an irregular fabric structure, compromised strength, and potential flaws such as skewing or bowing. Skilled weavers and high-quality looms strive to achieve a consistent and well-defined fell to produce superior fabrics.
Various textile manufacturers and fashion brands prioritize the use of well-finished fabrics with impeccable fell characteristics. These manufacturers often employ advanced weaving techniques, state-of-the-art looms, and highly trained artisans to ensure the desired quality. Some renowned textile companies specializing in high-quality fabrics include Loro Piana, Dormeuil, Zegna, Scabal, and Holland & Sherry. These manufacturers are known for their exquisite materials, including wool, cashmere, silk, and luxury blends.
Luxury fashion houses and designers frequently utilize fabrics with impeccable fells in their collections. These fabrics are highly sought after in the production of high-end suits, formalwear, couture garments, and luxury accessories. Fashion houses such as Chanel, Gucci, Prada, and Armani are renowned for their meticulous attention to fabric quality and finish.
Moreover, interior designers and home decor brands also prioritize fabrics with well-defined fells in the creation of luxurious upholstery, drapery, and decorative textiles. These fabrics enhance the visual appeal and durability of furniture and home furnishings, meeting the discerning tastes of high-end clients and luxury hospitality projects.
In summary, the fell in textile refers to the edge or line formed by the last weft thread inserted during the weaving process. It significantly influences the fabric's stability, drape, and aesthetic appearance. Manufacturers and brands that prioritize exceptional fabric quality and craftsmanship, such as Loro Piana, Chanel, and Gucci, place great emphasis on achieving impeccable fells in their textiles. By focusing on this aspect, they create fabrics that meet the demands of luxury fashion, high-end interiors, and discerning consumers.
The line of termination of the fabric in the loom, i.e. the line formed by the last weft thread.
The last PICKS that have been woven in the cloth by the SHUTTLE.
The edge of the fabric in a weaving loom formed by the last weft thread.