What is "Leno weave" - Definition & Explanation
Last Updated on: 15-Mar-2023 (1 year, 2 months, 13 days ago)
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Leno weave

The Leno weave is a unique weaving technique used in the textile industry to create a structured and open fabric. It is characterized by the crossing of warp yarns around the weft yarns, resulting in a mesh-like appearance. The term "Leno" comes from the French word "leno," meaning "to twist."

Meaning and Definition

In the Leno weave, the warp yarns are arranged in pairs, with one yarn twisting around the other in a figure-eight pattern. This twist secures the weft yarns in place, creating a stable and durable fabric structure. The Leno weave is commonly used to produce lightweight, sheer, and airy fabrics with good drapability.

Characteristics and Applications

The Leno weave possesses several key characteristics that make it unique and suitable for various applications:

  1. Open Structure: The Leno weave creates a mesh-like structure, resulting in a fabric with an open and breathable quality. This makes it ideal for applications where air circulation is desired, such as curtains, mosquito nets, and lightweight apparel.
  2. Stability and Strength: The twisted warp yarns in the Leno weave provide stability and strength to the fabric, making it resistant to stretching and distortion. This makes it suitable for items that require durability, such as upholstery and bags.
  3. Enhanced Drape: Leno weave fabrics have excellent drapability due to the open structure and flexibility of the twisted yarns. This makes them ideal for creating flowing garments, scarves, and other items that require a graceful drape.
  4. Sheerness: Leno weave fabrics often have a sheer or semi-sheer appearance, allowing light to pass through. This characteristic makes them suitable for applications where a lightweight and translucent fabric is desired, such as bridal veils and window treatments.

Types of Leno Weave

There are different variations of the Leno weave, each with its own distinct characteristics:

  1. Plain Leno: In this type, the warp yarns twist around each other, securing the weft yarns in place.
  2. Mock Leno: Mock Leno mimics the appearance of true Leno weave but is achieved through special loom settings instead of actual yarn twisting.
  3. Gauze Leno: Gauze Leno is a lightweight, sheer fabric with a loose Leno weave structure. It is commonly used for medical dressings and bandages.

Tips for Handling Leno Weave Fabrics

When working with Leno weave fabrics, it is important to keep the following tips in mind:

  1. Handle with Care: Leno weave fabrics can be delicate due to their open structure. Handle them gently to avoid snagging or damaging the yarns.
  2. Use Proper Stitching Techniques: Leno weave fabrics may require specialized stitching techniques to ensure the yarns are securely held in place. Consult sewing resources or professionals for guidance.
  3. Avoid Excessive Tension: Applying excessive tension to Leno weave fabrics during sewing or handling can distort the open structure. Use moderate tension to maintain the fabric's intended appearance.
  4. Consider Lining: Due to their sheer or semi-sheer nature, Leno weave fabrics may benefit from lining to enhance opacity, structure, and longevity.

Top International Users and Manufacturers

Several prominent international brands incorporate Leno weave fabrics into their collections. Here are some of the top users and manufacturers:

  1. Chanel: Chanel, the luxury fashion brand, often utilizes Leno weave fabrics in their haute couture collections, adding a delicate and ethereal touch to their designs.
  2. Oscar de la Renta: Known for their elegant and feminine designs, Oscar de la Renta incorporates Leno weave fabrics in their eveningwear and bridal collections, creating lightweight and graceful silhouettes.
  3. Valentino: Valentino features Leno weave fabrics in their collections, particularly in their sheer and airy garments, highlighting the brand's romantic and sophisticated aesthetic.
  4. Eileen Fisher: Eileen Fisher, a sustainable fashion brand, incorporates Leno weave fabrics in their designs, focusing on creating lightweight and breathable garments with a relaxed and effortless style.
  5. Calvin Klein: Calvin Klein utilizes Leno weave fabrics in their collections, often in combination with other fabrics, to create modern and minimalist designs.

These are just a few examples of international users and manufacturers of Leno weave fabrics, showcasing their versatility and popularity in the fashion industry.


The Leno weave is a unique weaving technique that produces structured, open fabrics with an airy and lightweight quality. Its distinctive mesh-like appearance, stability, and enhanced drapability make it suitable for various applications, from curtains and upholstery to garments and accessories. By understanding the different types of Leno weave and following handling tips, individuals can work with these fabrics effectively. Prominent international brands, including Chanel, Oscar de la Renta, and Valentino, embrace Leno weave fabrics in their collections, utilizing their sheer and delicate qualities to create ethereal and elegant designs. The continued use of Leno weave fabrics by top manufacturers underscores their enduring appeal and contribution to the world of textile innovation and design.

Leno Weave
A construction of woven fabrics in which the resulting fabric is very sheer, yet durable. In this weave, two or more warp yarns are twisted around each other as they are interlaced with the filling yarns; thus securing a firm hold on the filling yarn and preventing them from slipping out of position. Also called the gauze weave. Leno weave fabrics are frequently used for window treatments, because their structure gives good durability with almost no yarn slippage, and permits the passage of light and air.
Leno weave
A weave in which the warp yarns are arranged in pairs with one twisted around the other between picks of feeling yarn as in marquisette. This type of weave gives firmness and strength to an open-weave fabric and prevents slippage and displacement of warp and filling yarns.

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