What is "Mock Leno" - Definition & Explanation
Last Updated on: 27-Feb-2024 ( ago)
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Mock Leno in Textiles: A Weave Between Tradition and Innovation

Mock Leno: An Intricate Dance of Warp and Weft

The textile industry's rich tapestry is filled with countless weaving techniques, each with its distinctive character and allure. Among these is the "Mock Leno" weave, a unique and intricate pattern that mimics the traditional Leno weave but with a twist. This article delves deep into its origins, types, handling tips, and its applications in modern textiles.

History and Origin

The Mock Leno weave finds its roots in the need to recreate the visual appeal and open structure of the traditional Leno weave without using the specific doup attachments required for genuine Leno. Its name, "Mock", suggests its imitation nature. Its origins can be traced back to the textile artisans' innovation, who wanted to achieve the Leno effect using simpler loom setups. Over time, its popularity has grown due to its distinctive texture and versatility.


  • Spot Mock Leno: Features isolated spots or areas of the Mock Leno effect on a plain or twill ground.
  • Striped Mock Leno: Alternates bands of Mock Leno with other weave structures.
  • All-Over Mock Leno: Covers the entire fabric surface with the Mock Leno pattern.

Tips for Handling Mock Leno

  • Due to its open weave, it's vital to handle Mock Leno fabrics gently to prevent snags and damage.
  • When sewing, use a new, sharp needle to prevent yarn breakage.
  • It's recommended to dry clean Mock Leno fabrics to maintain their structure and appearance.
  • Avoid aggressive ironing; a steam setting is preferable.

Major International Manufacturers/Users

  • Cotton Inc. - A leading global company, Cotton Inc. has been known to use and promote Mock Leno weaves, especially in summer collections due to the weave's breathable nature.
  • Milior - An Italian luxury brand, Milior, often incorporates Mock Leno in its high-end drapery and home textiles.
  • Arvind Ltd. - A significant player in the Indian textile market, Arvind has integrated Mock Leno weaves into its diverse fabric portfolio.
  • Heimtextil - The world's most significant textile trade fair, Heimtextil, has showcased Mock Leno textiles, demonstrating its application in interior decor.
  • Reliance Industries - As one of the giants in the textile industry, Reliance Industries has ventured into Mock Leno textiles, especially in its fashion fabric segments.


  • Fashion: Due to its aesthetic appeal, Mock Leno finds extensive use in fashion, especially summer clothing.
  • Home Decor: Its unique texture makes Mock Leno a favorite for curtains, drapes, and other interior textiles.
  • Industrial Use: With certain fiber combinations, Mock Leno can be employed in industrial settings for filters and other specialty applications.


Mock Leno stands as a testament to the textile industry's innovative spirit, transforming a complex weave into something more accessible without compromising its visual appeal. Its versatility, combined with the right blend of fibers, makes it suitable for various applications, from the ramp's glitz and glamour to an elegant living room's drapery. As textile technology continues to evolve, one can only imagine the new dimensions and applications that Mock Leno will find in the future. Its dance of warp and weft, creating an intricate mesh of threads, will continue to enchant designers and consumers alike for generations to come.

Mock leno
A woven fabric made on a dobby loom with an open mesh design that simulates a leno weave by interlacing and grouping the warp and weft yarns with spaces between the groups. Warp yarns are not paired as in a true leno weave.
Mock Leno Weave
A weave that has open spaces between groups of warp yarns and between groups of weft yarns and a similar appearance to that of a leno weave (q.v.).

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