What is "Plisse" - Definition & Explanation
Last Updated on: 02-Feb-2023 (1 year, 4 months, 12 days ago)
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Pliss is a distinctive fabric finish in the textile industry, characterized by a puckered or crinkled surface. The term "Pliss" originates from the French word meaning "pleated" or "crinkled." It is achieved through a specialized finishing process that creates permanent texture and unique visual effects. This article provides a detailed exploration of Pliss, including its history, types, tips for handling, and profiles of top international users and manufacturers.

History and Origin

The history of Pliss can be traced back to the 19th century, where it gained popularity during the Victorian era. The technique of creating permanent pleats or puckers in fabric was initially developed in France. Pliss fabric was primarily used for fashionable clothing and decorative purposes, as the texture added depth and visual interest to garments and home furnishings.

Definition and Characteristics

Pliss refers to a fabric finish characterized by a series of tiny, irregular puckers or crinkles across the surface. These puckers are created through a chemical treatment or heat-setting process. Pliss fabrics are typically made from lightweight materials such as cotton, silk, rayon, or polyester, which allow for maximum texture and drape. The texture of Pliss fabric adds dimension, visual interest, and a unique tactile experience.

Types of Pliss

Pliss fabrics can be categorized into different types based on their appearance and the technique used to create the texture:

  1. Traditional Pliss: This type of Pliss fabric is created using heat and pressure to set permanent pleats or puckers. It involves treating the fabric with caustic soda or other chemicals, which cause shrinkage in specific areas and result in a crinkled texture.
  2. Printed Pliss: In this variation, a design or pattern is printed onto the fabric before the Pliss process. The pleating is then applied, resulting in a textured surface with the printed design becoming distorted or emphasized by the puckers.
  3. Crinkle Pliss: Crinkle Pliss is achieved through a heat-setting process where the fabric is exposed to high temperatures, causing shrinkage and creating irregular puckers. This type of Pliss fabric has a more relaxed and random crinkle pattern.

Tips for Handling Pliss Fabric

When working with Pliss fabric, it is important to consider the following tips to ensure proper care and maintenance:

  1. Handwashing or Gentle Machine Wash: Pliss fabric is delicate and requires gentle cleaning. Handwashing is recommended to preserve the texture and shape of the fabric. If using a machine, select a delicate or handwash cycle with mild detergent.
  2. Avoid Ironing: Ironing Pliss fabric can flatten the puckers and ruin the texture. If necessary, use a steamer on a low setting to remove wrinkles.
  3. Storage: To maintain the texture, store Pliss garments flat or loosely rolled to avoid crushing or flattening the pleats.
  4. Avoid Stretching: Pliss fabric can lose its texture and elasticity if stretched excessively. Handle with care and avoid pulling or stretching the fabric.

Top International Users and Manufacturers

Pliss fabric is widely used by renowned international brands for a variety of fashion and home textile applications. Here are some notable users and manufacturers:

  1. Chlo: Chlo, a luxury fashion brand, incorporates Pliss fabric into their collections, adding texture and elegance to their garments, particularly dresses and blouses.
  2. Issey Miyake: Issey Miyake is known for his innovative use of textiles, including Pliss fabrics. His iconic Pleats Please collection features garments with permanent pleating, offering both style and functionality.
  3. Missoni: The renowned Italian fashion house Missoni incorporates Pliss fabrics in their collections, creating visually striking patterns and textures in their knitwear and dresses.
  4. Marimekko: Marimekko, a Finnish design house, utilizes Pliss fabric in their textile and home furnishing products, incorporating the texture to add depth and visual interest to their patterns.
  5. Giorgio Armani: Giorgio Armani incorporates Pliss fabrics in their designs, particularly in eveningwear and formal attire, adding texture and dimension to their elegant garments.


Pliss fabric, with its distinctive puckered texture, adds a touch of sophistication and visual interest to a wide range of textile applications. From its historical roots to the present, Pliss continues to be celebrated by top international fashion brands for its unique and elegant appearance. By understanding the different types and proper handling techniques, one can appreciate the beauty and versatility of Pliss fabric in contemporary fashion and design.

Cotton, rayon, and other fabrics that have been treated with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the goods either all over or in stripes giving a blistered effect that is similar to seersucker in appearance. Produced by a wet finishing treatment, this fabric has the look of woven seersucker, similar to crepe. This crinkle may or may not be removed after washing. This depends on the quality of the fabric. It does not need to be ironed, but if a double thickness, such as a hem, needs a little, it should be done after the fabric is thoroughly dry.
A fabric with a crinkied or puckered affect, generally in the direction to the warp, which is created either by tension weaving or through the application of a caustic soda solution which shrinks part of the yarns on the back of the cloth.

Some other terms

Some more terms:

Dimity 87
Cotton fabric made of combed yarn that comes in a plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect. A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or...
Two small, back to back outward facing pleats that have a box- like appearance. On shirts, box pleats are positioned in the center back at the bottom of the yoke to allow ease of movement in the...
A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, as well as manufactured fibers composed of regenerated celluluse in which substituents have replaced not more than 15% of the hydrogens of the...
A type of fancy yarn. It is an undulating gimp yarn, usually produced by binding an irregular yarn, such as a stripe or slub, in the direction opposite to the initial stage, to create graduated...
A fabric made in a double knit construction, usually produced in one color rather than color patterns. This plain fabric has an elastic quality with a slight horizontal line. The fabric looks the...

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